Brian did this approx 100 mile section in southern Devon solo backpacking from Plymouth to Exmouth. The scenery continued to be really pleasant with the Devon coast perhaps being a bit softer than Cornwall and with more holiday homes and caravan sites. But it still had some wilder cliff top hiking and lots of deep estuaries to cross – most assisted by entertaining short ferry rides – 7 in 6 days!
I found wild camping a bit trickier this time with all the built up areas and stayed in hotels for the last few nights when I found my self in towns by the evening. The weather in early September was pretty perfect, warm (16-25C at a guess), breezy and only a few rain showers.
As per our previous sections of the SWCP I noticed very few other multi day hikers with maybe 5-6 that looked like they were backpacking. The vast majority of people are doing short walks near towns or beaches and often walking dogs. The upside of this was that in the early morning or late in the day I had the trails outside towns to myself!
Day 1 Tuesday 8th September Plymouth to Erme beach
Plymouth has an incredible maritime history. How about these setting sail from here: The Mayflower 1620, Francis Drake’s 1572 1st circumnavigation of the earth, The Beagle in 1831 with Fitzroy and Darwin, and Captain Cook’s three Pacific explorations-incredible..
After a very wet morning in Plymouth I picked up a gas cannister and headed off through town to the old Barbican district and the ferry to Mount Batton. Luckily by the time I started walking it was dry!
A nice gentle introductory hike followed out of Plymouth bay to a stop off at the Old Mill Cafe in Wembury in a cool stone building. It was just warm enough to sit outside with views back along the coast with my soup bread coffee and cake.
Wembury has a nice little electric ferry with an orange diamond sign to alert the ferry woman. She arrived just as I reached the bay and I was soon across the quaint wooded estuary with lots of moored yachts.
After a long coastal afternoon walk I dropped down through trees into the rather posh Stokes Beach caravan site to pick up water from their outside tap- watched over by their CCTV camera. Had a longish stop here to air my feet then back up through estate houses along to Erme Mouth beach. It was 6pm and I decided to try and camp here as the tidal estuary could only be crossed near low tide – next at 11am. The beach has been used for filming Honblower’s French scene and Sense and Sensibility I think. Lots of signs warning off dog walkers but I didn’t see any about camping.
Day 2 Erme to Bolt Head
Up early to see a surfer in the bay pre 7am and was off by about 8.30am to soon reached the tidal estuary. I was way too early to cross but I was fired up so had a go anyway wearing sandals and made it with the water up to waist deep. It was fresh and warm water too so rather enjoyable. My early crossing gave me a slim chance of making it to the next ferry over the River Avon to Bantham if I pushed it. I hiked on hard for 6 steeply undulating miles to Bigbury and Burgh Island but lost the trail for a bit before backtracking onto the beach all the way to the ferry.
I made it for 11 but actually the ferry was running til 12 noon so I had more time than I thought. A cool short ferry which meandered due to the very low tide levels in the river to Bantham town.
After a stop off at a posh cafe I walked along to a car park toilets and dried off the tent and sleeping bag in the wind. An easy walk then along the edge of Thurlestone golf course -taking the record for No Entry and Keep Out signs!
I found a outside water tap at Bolberry Down restaurant and filled up for a camp. Further on Bolt Head and round Starehole Bay was really scenic and I doubled back on the trail looking for any camping opportunities. I had dinner next to a seat which might offer a slim chance but then walked further then back to Bolt Head to camp at a col right at the point. Excellent spot.
Day 3 To near Lannacombe Beach
Today was different! My Thermarest sleeping mattress exploded in the morning and I spent a chunk of the day on bus and train- buying another one in Plymouth then returning to the trail again at Salcombe by 5pm.
I set off again by taking the ferry across to East Portlemouth by about 6pm. Windy, muggy and grey skies, but I got about 6 miles in before finding a chair and small sheltered clearing a few miles before Lannacombe Beach.
Day 4 to Dartmouth
It rained in the wee small hours and was super humid so the tent and the vegetation was soaking in the morning. I headed along the wet path before climbing up to the prominent peninsula of Start Point. There was enough air movement here to lay out the tent to dry whilst I could look northwards as the coast changed direction and follows a direct line for the next 10 or miles.
Down to Beesands the sun had come out and I was able to dry out the rest of my backpack contents before a brunch coffee and cake at the cafe. Feeling refreshed and drier I now had a change in scenery heading along the flat ground at sea level between beaches and inland marshes and lakes. The town of Stoke Fleming was reached for lunch after heading inland back on hillier ground.
I fancied a hotel night to shower and wash clothes so walked on to bustling and touristy Dartmouth but couldn’t find accommodation. I ended up taking a ferry and bus to Brixham for the night. Brixham is a smaller town again with lots of tourism and links to Nelson and Frances Drake with a replica Golden Hind in the harbour.
Day 5 to Torquay
Next day I returned back to where I left off by taking a bus back to picturesque Kingswear across the river from Dartmouth. So I started hiking the trail at a latish 10am and heading 10 miles to walk through the town of Brixham again. It was a scenic stretch with rocky cliffs and some old war gun placements. Lots of short, steep up and downs and super humid air made it sweaty and tricky to find a rhythm.
I stopped for a bagel lunch at Brixham and by this time the sun was out and it felt hot- maybe 25-27C. My left leg was feeling a bit sore but I enjoyed the afternoon hike passing a line of tourist resorts and beaches on the way to Torquay. England seemed to be on holiday today!
Day 6 to Exmouth
After a pleasant buffet breakfast I was away about 8.15am hiking through the town in still super humid, cloudy, still conditions. There was a surprisingly tough steep ‘up and down’ section along field margins to the north of town before I dropped down to Shaldon where I picked up the small ferry across the River Teign to the well named town of Teignmouth.
I plodded along the promenade from here with the beach on one side and railway line on the other to stop for lunch at the town of Dawlish- famous for its black swans that were imported in from Australia.
It had got quite hot again in the afternoon and all that remained for me now was about 5 flat miles, mostly on tarmac cycle lane through the holiday camps of Dawlish Warren and onto Starcross. I intended taking the ferry from here over to finish at Exmouth but the ferry had stopped for a few hours during the very low tides. However I was able to take a short train ride around the estuary to Exmouth instead. And it was pretty scenic too.
Anyway a lovely, fairly mellow 6 days of hiking along the coast with about 100 miles covered!
