Skye – A wee walk

Skye Trail Alternatives

May 26, 2025July 19, 2025 by aweewalk, posted in Backpacking, scotland, Scrambling, Skye

I have hiked and scrambled many alternatives to the standard Skye Trail over the years and describe them here. To be honest the standard route is great as well, but particulary the first alternative, Coruisk-Sgurr na Stri is fantastic if you are up for it. You can click the map below for an interactive version.

All require solid navigation skills – and some scrambling for 1,2,3 and 4. If you are considering any of these you should do your own planning with maps and further resources such as Ralph Storer’s ’50 Best Routes on Skye and Raasay’ book (lots in there for a lifetime of great adventures on Skye). ‘Skye Scrambles’ by the Scottish Mountaineering Club is also good…..

Red- Main Skye Trail

Purple- Alternatives

1. Coruisk – Sgurr na Stri

A superb trip that requires good navigation skills with a short scramble. A few hours longer than the main Skye Trail.

Leaving the Skye Trail at Camasunary I headed west along the lovely beach then crossed the river in September 2022 (tidal and I had to wade) and followed the rough coastal trail to the west past the ‘Bad Step’ (Grade 2 scramble) to Loch Coruisk. I have been here many times over the years and the scramble looks a little intimidating being perched above the sea but has good solid handholds and is a very short crossing of a steep slab (maybe 10 meters?)

I took the trail north over a pass before descending down into Glen Sligachan to connect again with the main Skye Trail.

Better still is to also cut back south near the pass on a trail to the summit of Sgurr na Stri for some brilliant views. Return back to the trail to Glen Sligachan.

2 Loch Coruisk and Bealach na Glaic Moire

This route includes the same scramble (Bad Step, Grade 2) but mostly the challenge is navigating over some pathless, rough mountain territory. Not recommended in misty weather.

This is an interesting and atmospheric mountain route round the coast to Loch Coruisk via the ‘Bad Step’ (Grade 2 scramble) as per route 1, then along the south of Loch Coruisk, up over the Cuillin ridge at Bealach na Glaic Moire (pass of the big glade) then a scrabbling scree descent to connect with trails on the west of the mountains to Sligachan.

I followed route 1 in September 2022 to Loch Coruisk then left it by crossing the loch outlet using stepping stones (very tricky if the river is high) and picked up a rough trail along the south side of Loch Coruisk.

The going was very rough, steep and slow all the way up to the Bealach but the views are superb and this route takes you into the heart of the Cuillin mountains and over the crest to the north side.

On the descent I carefully traversed right along a grassy shelf to find the top of the steep scree descent to easier grassy ground and alpine meadows.

From the grassy ground and river, I trended right away from the river gorge on a faint trail down to pick up a better trail heading northward skirting the edge of the hills to the gentle Bealach a’Mhaim. A good path now follows the river with lovely waterfalls to Sligachan.

3 Druim nan Ramh ridge

This route is a varient on routes 1 and 2 needing the ability to scramble (Bad Step, Grade 2 plus another short Grade 2 near the top of the Druim nan Ramh ridge) but again the challenge is navigating over some pathless, rough mountain territory. Not recommended in misty weather.

Purple dotted line above. This is a varient on the above two routes and involved following the long ridge on the north side of Loch Curuisk. I took the Bad Step route as per 1 (Grade 2 scramble), then the trail north over to the pass, then split north west along the Druim nan Ramh ridge. This offered great views and was easy until near the top before the junction with the main Skye ridge. The least difficult route involved some Grade 2 scrambling avoiding the ridge on the left looking up for the final stretch. The book ‘Skye Scrambles’ by the Scottish Mountaineering Club was helpful. I arrived at Bealach na Glaic Moire as per route 2, bivouaced for the night then I followed that route to Sligachan.

4 Blaven south ridge

This ascends Blaven, a 3,000-foot mountain with some scrambling and navigation required.

We have only done this route as part of a day trip, and it would be tougher carrying backpacking equipment if on the Skye Trail as it involves a steep 3,000 foot ascent from sea level. That said, Blaven is a great mountain, visible and distinctive from afar, that calls out to be climbed with fab views.

5 Camasunary short cut

A good quality trail. We have hiked this a few times. It’s included here as it offers a shortcut between Camasunary and Kilmarie if required. Although by doing so you miss the fine coastal walk between Elgol and Camasunary on the main Skye Trail.

6 Spar Cave

This is the one alternative, more of a side trip, that we haven’t done…although we would love to as the cave looks fantastic. Note that access to the cave is tidal but Walkhighlands provides all the details.

7 Storr ridge

This is the southern continuation of the Trotternish ridge on the Skye Trail. It’s less frequented though and involves some similar trackless and occasionally boggy ridge walking.

From Portree you need to walk up the A855 main road for about 1.5 miles before heading out cross country up the hills.

This is worthwhile and there are some really nice views including hiking to the top of the hill, The Storr above the Old Man of Storr, but to be honest I think the main Skye Trail route is better.

8 Quiraing north ridge

This is a route I did about 20 years ago northbound by splitting from the Quiraing trail before it descends to Flodigarry and following a trail to climb onto the north end of the Quiraing ridge.

I traversed some really scenic tops before descending boggy ground north west to the road at Kilmaluag. A short local road north took me to Kilmaluag bay and connecting with the main Skye Trail for its final flourish along the coast to Rubha Hunish.

Given the choice though I think the main Skye Trail has more merit with greater variety and drier ground for walking!

Skye Trail

May 9, 2025August 20, 2025 by aweewalk, posted in Backpacking, scotland, Skye

Introduction The Isle of Skye has a fantastic backpack (if you get reasonable weather, see planning below) of about 82 miles (132km) and 4-7 days duration called the Skye Trail.

The Isle of Skye sits off the north west coast of Scotland and has wonderfuly diverse geology and scenery. The trail traverses both mountains and coastline with some tremendous everchanging landscapes and, maybe I am biased, but the scenery is world class.

In the south are the Cuillin mountains which are the most rugged in the British Isles. In the north is the Trotternish Ridge, where the trail traverses the long undulating ridge with splendid views and other worldly rock formations at either end. The coastal sections are equally good, particularly around Elgol in the south and Flodigarry to Rubha Hunnish in the north. That’s a lot of excitement to pack into around 80 miles!

2025 southbound hike blog below
2022 northbound hike blog
Skye Trail Planning notes below
Skye Trail Alternative routes
Walkhighlands has an excellent web guide with descriptions and maps of the Skye Trail plus an off-line app

My hike May 2025 Southbound

Day 1 5th May 2025 Rubha Hunish to Flodigarry and the Quiraing

Skye’s bus service is helpful for accessing the Skye Trail at various points along the way, and I was able to leave my car at Sligachan and take buses north to Portree, then to the start at Shulista.

It had been very sunny here for the last few weeks which meant that the ground was pretty dry as I walked north at 1pm on an improved trail. The lookout and bothy at Rubha Hunish stands at a panoramic headland, with particularly good views north west to the Outer Hebrides over the small, wild looking island group of Fladda-chuain.

Next I headed east along the top of the cliffs on a surprisingly good line of faint dry trails with lovely views down to sea stacks and the hills of the mainland on the horizon.

Back down to sea level I passed the picturesque bay of Gobhlaig / Balmaqueen with its old church and then more gentle scenic cliff top walking along to the posh looking Flodigarry nestled in a rare woodland for these parts.

About 10 minutes walking along the main road gave access to the wide trail climbing up to the Quiraing, a wonderful series of peaks and pinnacles, and amazing to think its caused by landslips which are still active. This is a justifiably popular walking area but by the time I stopped for dinner about 5pm it was deserted. I took water and headed steeply up away from the trail to find a campsite in an incredible spot in amongst the towers. A really scenic first day.

Day 2 Quiraing, Trotternish, Old Man of Storr

Ravens were vocal in the early morning with their croaking echoing between the rock walls. I carried on southwards to cross a road and car park to start the hike along the long undulating Trotternish ridge. This provides superb walking with panoramic and subtely changing views all round to cliffs, islands and hills. I was glad I had saved this for a good weather day to appreciate this 14 mile high level stretch to the next road at The Storr.

Following the route was straightforward (in the clear weather I had anyway, it would be much trickier in mist), with a use trail along the cliff edge of the steep east facing slopes. It was also mostly dry underfoot, but my trail running shoes still got soaked on intermittent boggy seeps. Carrying a couple of spare pairs of socks and switching over to try and dry off the feet helped a bit though.

I saw a few hikers out today, maybe about 15 others mostly heading northwards but it still felt like a fairly wild experience. This changed as I neared The Old Man of Storr- another crazy, stunning set of pinnacles and popular tourist spot. I descended down past The Storr on a good maintained trail to the road and carpark packed with people. Well, it is justified, as it’s another incredible place that has been used in a few movies….

I left the hubub and crossed the road to follow another lower, more mellow ridgeline south over the hill ‘Sithean Bhealaich Chumhaing’ -a Scottish Gaelic name that is a bit of a mouthful but I think it means ‘fairy hill of the narrow pass’. This is a relatively unfrequented area of Skye but is incredibly scenic as well as providing a good chance to spot eagles.

With little wind, I was able to set up a splendid camp right on the ridge with grand views all round, especially south to the Red and Black Cuillen mountains where I was heading.

Day 3 Portree and Glen Sligachan

I had a couple of hours walking in the morning into the largest town in Skye, Portree. Descending down from the camp the views of Portree bay opened up with a small cruise ship arriving. There is a lovely walk along the north shore of the bay into Portree itself and I got some food, along with a visit to the Inside Out outdoors shop for some glue to repair (hopefully succesfully!) my inflatable sleeping pad.

I walked out of town along the road and then cut down back to the edge of the bay for about a mile giving enjoyable hiking with plenty of waders and geese around. From there, it was time to hike the road for a couple of hours- albeit a minor single track road with few cars and more views, which I didn’t mind at all.

Eventually the road ran out and I joined a cool trail on the north shore of Loch Sligachan to arrive at Sligachan campsite for about 5pm. I had intended camping here but first I had a veggie burger at the nearby hotel. The sun had just come out and this is a lovely spot to sit outside. But…. I decided to head out along Glen Sligachan in the nice evening light to find a wild camp.

All the tourist buses stop here quite rightly for the views into the Cuillin mountains, and I do like the newish statue of early mountaineers Mackenzie and Collie looking up to the hills. Anyway I soon was hiking a quiet trail along Glen Sligachan between the jaggy Black Cuillen on the right and more rounded Red Cuillen on left.

I have previously done some alternatives to this glen walk in the past, described in Skye Trail Alternatives. These are fab, but to be honest this walk down the glen looking up to the hills is also pretty good, as well as being dry underfoot and easy to navigate. Camping spots were few and far between but I found a good spot down by two lochs, Lochan Dubha (the Black Lochs).

Day 4 To Elgol, Torrin and Boreraig

A sunny morning and I hiked easily out of the glen to the shore at Camasunary, stopping to have a look at the luxury MBA Bothy here. A great spot, but I wouldn’t have exchanged it for my wild camp last night!

The next stretch is a favourite of mine, a couple hours to Elgol on a sometimes rather exposed trail above the sea- it’s worth stopping a lot to look back at the grand views to the Cuillins and Loch Coruisk… After a lunch break at the recommended Cafe Elgol (the grocery shop seemed closed) I now headed back east then north around the peninsula, first on quiet road then trail. This is a mellow stretch that affords lots of distant views to islands and sea.

After rounding Loch Slappin, I made it back down south to camp on the coast between the Highland Clearance villages of Suisnish and Boreraig. Another great day and with easier dry, walking.

Day 5 To Broadford

All that was left was an easy six or so miles back north over to Broadford- it was still pretty scenic though. What a trail, and I would do it again!

Planning

Walkhighlands has an excellent web guide and app.

Cicerone also a has a detailed guidebook available in paper or eBook.

Harvey Maps Skye Trail paper map is also very useful.

No permits are required, you can wild camp easily outside the towns and access to drinking water mostly isn’t a problem.

There are good bus services down the length of the island connecting the start and finish, as well as Portree and Sligachan. Check the guides or use an app such as Google Maps.

*Approaching Loch Coruisk* *on an alternative*

Best time to hike But when is best? Here are some factors to consider…. April to July is the driest time in Skye. For me from November to February is too dark, wet and boggy at least for wild camping. The biting insect called the midge makes itself felt from some time in May to September. Tourists flock to Skye in summer and they won’t impact your hiking but they do make it more difficult and expensive to get accommodation if you need it.

So I would say April, May, early June along with late September and early October are the best times to plan in advance – with May perhaps being optimal. That said Skye has very variable weather and can be good or bad any month of the year.

Best direction I don’t think it matters too much. However if you are flexible then checking the forecast wind for the week (see links below) and hiking with the wind at your back might prove a good idea.

If you are not wild camping then you have a long, exposed day along the Trotternish ridge between The Storr carpark and Flodigarry in the north. It might be best to do this near the end of the trip and thus hike northwards so you have time to ‘warm up’ before tackling this stage. If you are wild camping, you have more flexibility if the weather is reasonable as you could pitch your tent along the ridge.

Hiking terrain There is a huge mix. From trails, cross country along ridges and coast – and some stretches of tarmac. Expect lots of soft wet ground and some bog, especially in wetter periods between Portree and Flodigarry.

I reckon there is about 28km of the 130km total length on tarmac, with the longest stretch being 6.5 miles (10.5km) between Sligachan and Portree in the middle. On the plus side the roads are quiet and the views are mostly extensive, but its a bit more than I would like on a trail.

Weather I will be honest, Skye has a pretty wet climate with the prevailing south westerly winds bringing damp air from the Atlantic. I had a quick look at the web, and for example the town of Portree on the Skye Trail has about double the precipitation (1815mm average annual) compared to Tuolumne Meadows in the USA on the Pacific Crest Trail. I suspect Portree is one of the driest parts of the Skye Trail as well! But there are dry spells – and mixed cloudy, showery weather can provide clear air and beautiful, atmospheric views.

Ideally to me it would be best to plan your hike in advance but have some flexibility to look at forecasts before you set off such as:

Rest of Britain

April 10, 2023March 27, 2025 by aweewalk, posted in Backpacking, brian dickson, Climbing, Cornwall, Day walks, England, Lake District, mountain biking, north highland way, Rock climbing, scotland, Sea kayaking, Skye, west highland way

Some of our British backpacking trips but also other hikes, climbs, sea kayaking and cycling.

Scotland

Some sample Scottish trips from a lifetime in the outdoors!

England

2023 2020 2019 South West Coast Path section hikes (blogs)

2022 Cumbria Way (blog) 70-80 miles across Lake District National Park

2016 2015 Coast to Coast Trail (blog) of 190 miles across northern England through the Lake District, Yorkshire Dales and North York Moors National Parks.

Lake District climbing and fell walking

Cornwall and the south west climbing

Wales

2021 Pembrokeshire coastal path (4 days)

1999 1996 1995 1991 1990 1989 Llanberis and Anglesey climbs and hill walking

Ireland

1999 Donegal sea cliff climbing

1999 Connemara hill walking

1999 Dublin Dalkey quarry rock climbing

Skye Trail September 2022

September 22, 2022May 26, 2025 by aweewalk, posted in Backpacking, brian dickson, scotland, Skye

Introduction For all Martina and I’s backpacking over the years, we have actually done very little long distance walks in our home country of Scotland. I guess one of the reasons is that we have explored Scotland extensively as part of hillwalking, climbing, kayaking and other trips such that there is less of a sense of discovery for us here. Not to say that Scotland isn’t fantastic with its beautiful mix of hills, sea and islands, ever changing light and accessibility throughout the year. And there is still plenty new for us to see, particularly around the coasts. But Scotland also does have challenges for backpacking over many days, with principle adversaries being wet weather with boggy underfoot conditions and, in summer- the midge!

The Isle of Skye though has a potentially wonderful backpack of about 7 days duration and 80 miles (130km) called the Skye Trail. Brian thought he would give it a go in the autumn of 2022. You can see maps of the route at Walkhighlands along with an excellent web guide and app.

See also Skye Trail 2025 blog

My hike Northbound

Day 1 Broadford to Torrin This was a short easy day. I started late from Broadford around 4pm but still made it just short of Torrin to camp at the bay of Camus Malag before joining road. The trails are dry making for relaxed walking over to the coast at Boreraig, with its town ruins evidence of Highland Clearances described in Walkhighlands. There is a lovely coastal path round to Loch Slapin and the views of the mountain Blabheinn (pronounced Blaven) in particular are spectacular. A really enjoyable mellow start.

Day 2 Torrin to Elgol to Camasunary This is another short guidebook day and I hiked on from Elgol for an extra few hours to camp to the north at Camasunary Bay. I started with a road walk through the small settlement of Torrin (the cafe was closed unfortunately!) and round the head of Loch Slapin. Good views to the mountains here and there is roadside camping opportunities next to the sea but you may need to share with campervans. The route leaves the road at the Blaven trailhead following a trail south for about 4km to return to the tarmac.

[Note that you could do a wild alternate here by hiking to the summit of Blaven, then down its south ridge to Camasunary. The panoramic views are great, but its a 3000 feet climb with rough ground on the descent and some scrambling. One for good weather. Maybe on balance I would recommend the Coruisk – Sgurr na Stri alternative below instead.]

I had showers and rainbows as I hiked through Kirkibost [a shortcut alternate takes you direct to Camasunary from south of here on a landrover track but its not as good as the normal route]. then a series of again viewful tracks south above the coast to near Spar Cave. I didn’t visit the cave but I think it would be a superb diversion-note you need a low tide to access it.

Another quiet road headed east over to Elgol. More great views out to sea and across to the Isle of Rum.

I stopped at Elgol for a late lunch before turning north on a excellent trail on a coastal escarpment to Camasunary. This was the best section so far as I headed along the, at times exposed, trail looking to the Cuillin mountains. You could camp at Glen Scaladal, there is some beach plastic ‘flotsom and jetsom’ but its still a good spot. I stopped beyond at Camasunary Bay to camp (there is also a popular bothy here you could stay at). Superb day.

Day 3 Camasunary to Sligachan The normal route here is straightforward following Glen Sligachan north on a good trail. This provides everchanging views to the Cuillin peaks above but stays low in a valley and misses the Cuillin mountains themselves which is a pity.

I took a somewhat more interesting route round the coast to Loch Coruisk via the ‘Bad Step’, then along the south of Loch Coruisk, up over the Cuillin ridge at the pass Bealach na Glaic Moire then after some scrabbling scree descents I connected with trails on the west of the mountains to Sligachan.

My post on Skye Trail Alternatives has more

My day started with a crossing of the river west of Camasunary over some stepping stones about 300m inland from the sea. I managed to stay dry which was a bonus – I have been soaked here before as it’s tidal and the river rises a lot during wet spells. Next up was a grand rough trail round the coast to the outlet of Loch Coruisk. This is atmospheric territory and reaches a crescendo at the ‘Bad Step’ – a sloping slab of rock perched above the sea. It is short and requires a Grade 2 (US Class 4 maybe) scramble using a crack line as a hand rail. Once past that I followed a faint trail through a short section of boulders and deep vegetation before exiting out over a shallow pass to Loch Coruisk. This was a fantastic spot with the loch walled in by imposing mountains.

There was a strong wind funneling down the loch and it was tough going along the lochside with lots of bog then a steep haul up to the high pass, Bealach na Glaic Moire, on the Cuillin ridge itself. I stopped for lunch hunched down behind a boulder from the gale force winds but the views were superb. The descent involved some (to be honest unpleasant) steep scree before I picked up a good trail above the crowded ‘Instagram spot’ of the Fairy Pools. I sped on over the pass, Bealach a’ Mhaim, with heavy rain showers preventing me stopping for a brew of tea to relax. There are beautiful waterfalls on the way to Sligachan which are quiet- unlike the Fairy Pools -and would be great for a dip if it was a bit warmer! Another superb day.

Back down to Loch Coruisk and Elgol from the pass

Day 4 Sligachan to Portree This is the least interesting day of the hike, more of a connector between the Cuillin mountains and the Trotternish ridge north of Portree. On the plus side the views can be good reducing the slightly dull 10.5km of road walking. I set off from Sligachan campsite in dark cloudy weather and followed the pleasant path along the north shore of Loch Sligachan. Views are good (again) and you see the Raasay ferry setting off on its short voyage. Unfortunately the sky’s opened once I hit the minor road so it was ‘heads down’ fast walk from there into Portree for me.

Day 5 Portree to The Storr trailhead It was raining hard in Portree and checking the forecast showed more rain for the next three days so I reluctantly stopped at this point and intend to return to backpack the remaining 3 days in better weather.

I did do this section in May 2021 though. A good trail leads round Portree harbour and bay- I saw both sea eagles and golden eagles on the climb out onto the ridge to the north. Views back to the Cuillin mountains and over to Raasay are splendid. It gets a bit boggier descending north but there is a short road you meet above Bearreraig Bay. I took the steep path down to the bay past the hydro station to its cool beach and fossils. A short but excellent day with Portree bay and a ridge walk.

Day 6 The Storr to Flodigarry – Trotternish ridge Again I have hiked this ridge in the past and it is a brilliant undulating grassy ridge walk with expansive views. To the east are the hills of the mainland and the isles of Raasay and Rona. To the west are the island chain of the Outer Hebrides. At both ends are the weird rock formations of The Storr in the south and The Quirang in the north. Try and savor all of this on a good weather day.

*Looking south down the Trotternish Ridge from the Quirang*

Day 7 Flodigarry to Rubha Hunish and Duntulm A mostly cross country coastal walk to Sky’s most northerly point Rubha Hunish which has a wild spacious feel looking out across the sea to Harris.