Dolomites Alta Via 2 backpack

The Alta Via 2 is a very cool high level hike that traverses the Italian Dolomites mountain range north to south. Brian had hiked the nearby Alta Via 1 way back in 1994 and that was excellent. With lots of ascent and descent and some scrambling and ‘via ferrata‘ sections the AV2 provides a really fun 1-2 week hike. There are Refugio’s along the way that can be used but I mostly wild camped starting 23rd August into the first week September 2023.

Alta Via2 Purple, AV9 Blue (my 2024 variations Rust), AV1 Green (my 2024 route Orange)

My Itinerary

Day 1 Brixen train station to camp north of Rif Genova (I used the Plose chairlift to assist the ascent for 500m- in my defence it was about 35C in Brixen!)

Day 2 To Passo Gardena camp

Day 3 To camp north of Malga Ciapela (there is also a proper campsite here in town with showers which in retrospect would have been better)

Day 4 To camp north of Passo di Velles

Day 5 To Rif Mulaz then I descended for 2-3 hours west to Passo Rolle and bus to San Martino (stormy day)

Day 6 Bus back to Passo Rolle and followed trails to Rif Rosetta on west of Pale di San Martino mtns. Then to Rif Pradidali (stayed here due to more rain)

Day 7 To Rif Treviso then to camp near Passo Cereda

Day 8 To Rif Boz

Day 9 To road end at Croce d’Aune and transport to Feltre

I thought that the southbound direction I took was slightly easier than northbound, as many of the trickier scrambles or loose sections are taken in ascent. It also seemed like the trail got wilder with less people as I hiked south, with the last few days (say from Passo Velles south) being both the wildest and for me the best. But to be honest, it was all pretty great!

I had a few days left before my flight home so I took a bus back to San Martino and did a 2 night camping hike here taking in the AV2 main route I missed from Rif Mulaz to Rif Rosetta. I think this AV2 section, though short, was probably the toughest scramble/VF on the AV2.

Notes for hikers

Difficulty The trail is mostly very easy to follow, but does cross some high mountain terrain with moderate exposure, scrambling and via ferrata. As a rough guide the equivalent would be short scrambling sections at US Class 4.

Some people carry special via ferrata equipment to assist (harness, slings, karabiners, maybe a helmet also). I didn’t feel the need, and that worked out correct for me being able to hike without that extra weight, but I guess each individual needs to make their own decision.

An advantage of having the VF gear is that you can also then tackle some tougher via ferrata side trips to summits along the way for even more spectacular views!

The trail seemed to have a lot of ascent and descent, and since returning I produced an ascent comparison with other trails which confirms this. Its right up there with some other European alpine trails with the most steep up and down!

Transport I used public transport from Venice airport to both north and south terminus’s. The transport network is superb and good value. Just remember when using trains that once you buy a ticket you also need to get it stamped in the station before boarding- or you risk a fine like I did on the first train!

Guides and maps I really liked the Cicerone guide to the AV2-6 and recommend it (even though I had an old edition). I also bought a paper map – Dolomiten Hohenweg 2 by Geomarketing – at the first Refugio in the north, Plosehutte and also found this strip map style very useful and it saved me time looking at my phone which I appreciated.

As a back up I had topo maps downloaded to my phone using the OutdoorActive app. I didn’t download a gpx as the route was mostly marked on the topo maps.

In general the signposting for the route on the ground was superb though. Often the way was marked on posts as a ‘2’ in a red triangle. It helped to know the number of the local trail that the AV2 followed as well, as at times only that number was on signposts.

Food supplies Both Brixen at the north of the trail and Feltre at the southern end have excellent supermarkets for food supplies.

The Refugio’s all sell meals and most had a (fairly expensive) small supply of chocolate bars such as Ritter Sport or Snickers.

The trail crosses road passes such as Passo Gardena – Guidebook Stage 4 – and Pordoi – Guidebook Stage 5 – where a regular bus service can be used to travel down to valley towns if required.

Malga Ciapela – Guidebook Stage 6 -on the trail on the east side of Marmolada has a good small grocery store next to the cafe as well as a outdoors gear store.

I used trails to descend west from Ref Mulaz – Guidebook Stage 7-down to Passo Rolle, then local bus to San Martino which is a good supply town with plenty of accommodation. I was able then to take the bus back to Passo Rolle to restart from where I left off.

East of Passo Cereda – Guidebook Stage 10 – the village of Mis has a grocery store which you could hike as a loop to and from the trail (I didn’t go there though).

In general there was no need to carry more than 2-3 days food at any one time and you could carry less if you made more use of the Refugio’s for food than I did.

Water I took Chlorine Dioxide ClO₂ tablets to treat water where I thought it was  along the way. There were quite a few water fountains or fonts, often outside Refugio’s, so I didn’t use the tablets too often. But for me, they were definitely worth carrying to be safe. Other options are to carry ClO₂ droplets or a water filter to treat water. The Refugios also sell bottled drinking water if you need that (at about 3 Euro per 1.5 litre bottle in 2023).

Gas canister supplies I used screw in gas canisters and found these for sale at nearby town of Bozen/Bolzano (Sportler), on trail at Malga Ciapela (De Grandi Sport Marmolada, next to the grocery) and San Martino sport shop (100g canisters only). I had the availability of canisters confirmed from Pantano Gas (about 3km south of Brixen centre). I also suspect that Decathlon in Venice Mestre will sell them too.

If you are happy with some scrambling, go do it!

More photos here….